When working with stretch fabrics, understanding the fabric’s stretch direction and percentage is key to achieving a good fit in your sewing projects. Stretch fabrics can be categorized into two main types based on their stretch direction: one-way stretch and two-way stretch.
- One-way stretch fabrics stretch only in one direction (usually across the width). These fabrics provide limited flexibility and typically require a more precise fit in the areas that need movement.
- Two-way stretch fabrics stretch both horizontally and vertically, offering more overall flexibility. They are often used in garments that require extra ease and comfort, such as activewear or fitted dresses.
The percentage of stretch refers to how much the fabric expands when stretched. Fabrics with a 5-10% stretch are generally used for slightly fitted garments, while those with 20% or more offer a snug, body-hugging fit. The higher the stretch percentage, the more the fabric will conform to the body's shape, influencing the pattern fit and comfort level. It's crucial to choose the right fabric and adjust the pattern accordingly to achieve the desired fit, especially in areas like waistbands, hips, or busts, where stretch is often needed for ease of movement.
25% is the minimum of stretch fabrics. Usually fabrics in this category are: sweater fabrics, fleece and more. Used in tops, sweaters, jogger pants, some types of dresses and skirts. (not fitted)
50% stretch fabric is used for fitted
outfits such as tops, t-shirts, dresses, pants (even without zippers) tops. Also used in draped garments.
75% stretch is usually used in sportswear. Mostly leggings, athletic bras and bodysuits, catsuits, etc. Usually, if not always these fabrics are 4 way stretch.
100% stretch id definetaly a 4 way stretch knit. Used in sportwear and swimwear mostly. These fabrics have usually a high percentage in spandex or lycra.